How To Draft the Viral Givenchy Ruffled Lace Dress From Scratch- FINAL PART
 |
| picture credit: Givenchy Beauty Instagram |
Here is the final installment of the How-to series. In Part 1, we started off with drafting the block, in Parts 2&3, we transformed the block via contouring, slashing and spreading to create the shell (main fabric) pattern pieces. In this blog post, I will be creating the lining pieces, which are a much slimmer fit.
PART 4- CREATING THE LINING PIECES
 |
| FIGURE 4.1 |
 |
| FIGURE 4.2 |
 |
| FIGURE 4.3 |
 |
| FIGURE 4.4 |
 |
| FIGURE 4.5 |
 |
| FIGURE 4.6 |
STEP 1 (fig 4.1)
Take the working front pattern that was set aside in Part 3. Fill the opening created by the closed dart with a wedge of paper glued or taped to the back of the pattern.
Draw a slash line from approximately the upper third of the armhole to the lower edge. Cut along this line from the bottom edge up towards the armhole, but do not cut all the way through; leave a small hinge at the armhole.
Take the working front pattern that was set aside in Part 3. Fill the opening created by the closed dart with a wedge of paper glued or taped to the back of the pattern.
Draw a slash line from approximately the upper third of the armhole to the lower edge. Cut along this line from the bottom edge up towards the armhole, but do not cut all the way through; leave a small hinge at the armhole.
STEP 2 (fig 4.3)
Take a new sheet of paper and draw a vertical guideline.
Place the Centre Front (CF) along this line and tape down the CF section. Then spread the pattern as shown.
Take a new sheet of paper and draw a vertical guideline.
Place the Centre Front (CF) along this line and tape down the CF section. Then spread the pattern as shown.
STEP 3 (fig 4.2 & 4.4)
Take the slashed working back pattern that was set aside in Part 3.
On a new sheet of paper, draw a vertical guideline and align the Centre Back (CB) with it. Tape down the CB section, then spread the pattern as shown.
Take the slashed working back pattern that was set aside in Part 3.
On a new sheet of paper, draw a vertical guideline and align the Centre Back (CB) with it. Tape down the CB section, then spread the pattern as shown.
STEP 4 (fig 4.3 & 4.4)
Spread both the front and back patterns such that line D-G is about equal to G-E, and their sum, multiplied by 2, is equal to the Hip Circumference plus a minimum of 4" or 10 cm. That is,
2× ( D-G + G-E) = HIP + 4” (10 cm) or a bit higher.
Spread both the front and back patterns such that line D-G is about equal to G-E, and their sum, multiplied by 2, is equal to the Hip Circumference plus a minimum of 4" or 10 cm. That is,
2× ( D-G + G-E) = HIP + 4” (10 cm) or a bit higher.
STEP 5 (fig 4.3 & 4.4)
Remove the working patterns, cut out the finished front lining and back lining pattern pieces and label them with the necessary pattern info.
Remove the working patterns, cut out the finished front lining and back lining pattern pieces and label them with the necessary pattern info.
STEP 6 (fig 4.3 & 4.4)
Add your preferred seam allowances (shown as dashed lines in the illustrations).
For this tutorial, I have used 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowances at the neckline, armhole, side seams, and hem.
Add your preferred seam allowances (shown as dashed lines in the illustrations).
For this tutorial, I have used 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowances at the neckline, armhole, side seams, and hem.
STEP 7 (fig 4.5 &4.6)
Remove the working patterns, then cut out the finished Front Lining and Back Lining pattern pieces.
Label each pattern piece with the necessary pattern information.
Remove the working patterns, then cut out the finished Front Lining and Back Lining pattern pieces.
Label each pattern piece with the necessary pattern information.
FABRIC COMSUMPTION AND CUTTING LAYOUT
For the body measurements used in this tutorial (Bust 38” / 97 cm, Chest 36” / 91 cm, Across Back Shoulder 15.5” / 39.5 cm, and Dress Length 30” / 76 cm), with the maximum degree of back-piece flare and a ruffle length equal to 2 times its attachment seam, the fabric consumption shown below is based on 54” (137 cm) wide lace fabric and 54” (137 cm) wide lining fabric. The estimate also does not include ruffle lining, netting/tulle underlayers.
The layout assumes an all-over, non-directional fabric design. The lace fabric is also assumed to have identical scalloped edges on both selvedges, allowing the front and back ruffle hems to be placed along opposite scalloped edges.
To improve fabric efficiency, the back ruffle pattern has been split into two pieces. The back is also not placed on the fold of the fabric but the back pattern piece is mirrored and placed in the middle of the layout to make use of the space there. What that means is that only a single layer of the back need be cut, the other fabric layer becomes leftover fabric as we do not need 2 complete cut back pieces.
We have come to the end of this three-part blog series.
See Part 1
See Part 2
If you would like access to the complete step-by-step instructions, you can download for a small fee here. The download also includes an Excel spreadsheet that automatically calculates the values for each step based on your measurements. if you do decide to use this tutorial, feel free to tag me on your (or share with me) your progress and finished make. I would love to see it!
Comments
Post a Comment