Sew Explicit

This post brings the "how to learn to grade sewing patterns" post series to an end. In  part 1 and part 2 , I talked about why one may need to grade, what grading is and is not, and methods of pattern grading. You should look at those posts before continuing with this. Those posts contain videos and links to resources that can help get started. This post will even contain more links to resources I have personally found very helpful. First up is a Threads magazine online article from way back (2008).  This article is golden. It gives a simple example of how patterns “grow” at different locations within a pattern. It explained grading using a cut and spread diagram, but the info is also useful to both the “slide” and X &Y methods. This growth in different locations as shown on the chart in another  article linked to ) are known as “ grade rules ”.  The chart shows a simple formula for arriving at the grade rules. This formula is not set in stone, but it is an excell

What is Pattern Grading? Pattern grading is the process or the technique of making a sewing pattern available in other additional sizes without redrafting each size from scratch;  Grading is the method by which the pattern grader creates patterns for a whole range of sizes from the agreed base size. It is the task of grading to proportion those increments among the different parts or panels of the garment according to detailed, logical rules

I know a whole of Nigerian sewers prefer to self-draft their patterns. Well, this post is for you if you like to draft your own sewing patterns. I am reviewing a vintage pattern making text book from the 1940s. I first came across a copy of this book about 12 years ago. It was my intro to drafting books and I have learnt immensely from it over the years. At a time when I wished for current/popular texts, I thought it was ancient  and not relevant.  I have come to realise that this book remains one of the best. A number of modern authors have directly or indirectly referenced the book. Trends may change but the fundamental principles remain the same.