How To Draft the Viral Givenchy Ruffled Lace Dress From Scratch- PARTS 2 & 3


This blog post is the second instalment in the series where I show you how to create the pattern for the viral Givenchy ruffled mini lace dress. In Part 1, we used your body measurements to draft a simple block. In this post, I will show you how to transform that block into the pattern pieces for the shell (self/main fabric) of the dress.

PART 2: CARVING OUT THE PRELIMINARY  FRONT AND BACK SHAPES FROM THE BLOCK

FIGURE 2.1
FIGURE2.2

WORKING ON THE BACK HALF

STEP 1
Find the midpoint of the back shoulder, M–N1. Draw a vertical guideline parallel to the Centre Front.

STEP 2
At the base of the back neck, draw a perpendicular line across to intersect the vertical guideline drawn from the mid-shoulder. This line becomes the back neckline of the dress.

STEP 3
Draw a new armhole from this intersection to point U, as shown.

STEP 4
To create the slash line that will be spread in Part 3, measure the new armhole (an approximate visual estimate is sufficient) and locate a point about one-third of the way along its length. From this point, draw a line to intersect line G–E.

WORKING ON THE FRONT HALF

STEP 5. Find the midpoint of the front shoulder and draw a vertical guideline parallel to the Centre Front.

STEP 6. C to C1 = 3/8” (1 cm), measured horizontally.
Connect C1 to D. This line becomes the new Centre Front. This adjustment removes a small wedge at the front neckline to reduce gaping.

STEP 7. From point C1, draw a perpendicular line across to intersect the vertical guideline from the mid-shoulder. This line becomes the front neckline of the dress.

STEP 8. Draw the new front armhole from this intersection to point U, as shown.

STEP 9. To create a gape dart at the armhole, measure the new armhole (an approximate visual estimate is sufficient) and draw a guideline from X to the midpoint of the armhole.

Then create a 1/2” (1.3 cm) dart by marking 1/4” (0.6 cm) on either side of the guideline and shaping the dart as shown.

STEP 10. From point X, draw a line parallel to the Centre Front until it intersects line D–G. This will be the slash line used to transfer the dart created in the previous step.

STEP 11.

• Using scissors or another cutting tool, cut around the front and back shapes along the green lines shown in Figure 2.2.

• Separate the front and back sections by cutting along the side seam line.

• Take note of the blue vertical lines. The combined lengths of the front and back lines will give the strap length required.

• The red lines indicate the slash lines through which fullness will be added to the pattern in Part 3.


PART 3: SLASHING, SPREADING, TRUEING AND ADDING SEAM ALLOWANCES

WORKING ON THE FRONT


Figure 3.1


Figure 3.2

STEP 1
Slash the front pattern along the marked slash line up to point X. Then fold one leg of the bust dart over until it meets the other dart leg and secure it with masking tape. This will automatically transfer the dart fullness to line D–G.

STEP 2
Take a new sheet of paper and draw a straight vertical line near one edge (or use the paper edge itself if it is straight).
Tape the slashed front pattern onto the paper, aligning the Centre Front with the vertical line.

STEP 3
Trace around the pattern using a pencil and ruler.
Blend the front armhole with a smooth curved line as shown.
Also blend the lower edge, ensuring the corners at points D and G form right angles to the Centre Front and side seam, respectively.

STEP 4
Add your preferred seam allowances (shown as dashed lines in the illustrations).
For this tutorial, I have used 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowances at the neckline, armhole, side seam, and the lower edge D–G, which joins to the  ruffle.

STEP 5
Remove the working front pattern and set it aside for use in Part 4, where it will be used to create the lining pattern.
Cut out the finished front pattern and label it with the necessary pattern information.

WORKING ON THE BACK
FIGURE 3.3

FIGURE 3.4

FIGURE 3.5

STEP 6

Take the cut-out back pattern, cut on the marked slash line from the lower edge up to the armhole but not through leaving an hinge to pivot and spread.

STEP 7
Take a new wide sheet of paper, and draw a vertical guideline. Position the Centre Back (CB) along this line.

STEP 8
Before spreading, draw a horizontal guideline extending approximately 12” (30 cm) to the right as shown in Figure 3.3.
Secure the Centre Back section to the paper with masking tape to keep it stationary. Then pivot and spread the other section until point U on the back armhole reaches the guideline.

STEP 9
To create a shoulder pleat with a finished depth of 1” (2.5 cm), add width at the Centre Back by moving the Centre Back edge outward, as shown by the red arrows in Figure 3.4.

STEP 10
Redraw the lower edge of the back pattern, ensuring the corners are squared.
Trace around the shape, blending and redrawing the armhole curve as shown.

STEP 11
Add your preferred seam allowances around the pattern.

STEP 12
Remove the working back pattern and set it aside for use in Part 4, where it will be used to create the lining pattern.
Cut out the finished back pattern and label it with the necessary pattern information.


FIGURE 3.6

CREATING THE RUFFLES

STEP 13
Make the Front Ruffle length 2.5 times (or 2 times) the length of Front line D–G, and the height 40% of the Dress Length (DRL).

Add seam allowances to the top edge and side seams only. The bottom edge does not require a seam allowance if a scalloped lace edge will be used as the hem finish.

STEP 14
Similarly, make the Back Ruffle length 2.5 times (or 2 times) the length of Back line G–E, and the height 40% of the DRL.
Add seam allowances as described above.

STEP 15
The ruffle pattern pieces created above can also be used to cut the net/tulle underlayer. However, the net/tulle should be folded lengthwise after cutting so that it forms two layers, with a finished length approximately half that of the ruffle.

MAKING THE POCKET PATTERN

STEP 16
Draw an inseam pocket as shown, with a pocket opening of approximately 6” (15 cm). Position the opening about 1” (2.5 cm) below the top edge of the ruffle.
Trace the pocket shape onto a separate sheet of paper and add seam allowances.

THE STRAP

STEP 17.
For a strap with a finished width of 1/2” (1.3 cm), draw a rectangle 1” (2.5 cm) wide by the strap length determined in Part 2, Step 11, then add seam allowances around all edges.


This brings us to the end of the second post in this series. In the next and final post, I will show you how to create the lining pattern pieces and prepare the cutting layouts.
Before I sign off, I will leave you with the Instagram posts below, which provide a closer look at the details of the dress we are attempting to replicate in this tutorial.



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