Introducing the EasyMake Patterns: Iris, Jasmine & Marigold

Yay! Here we are with new sewing patterns. It has been over two years since I last released any sewing patterns and posted on this blog  I am not the most consistent but I finally made it here with Iris, Jasmine and Marigold. These three EasyMake patterns are being released together because they make up some sort of collection as they are designed to use similar fabrics and the pieces can be mixed, matched and styled in multiple combinations, even a couple of pattern pieces across Iris and Jasmine, with minor tweaks, can be interchanged to create new looks. 

These sewing patterns have been in the works for a while now, with the earliest toiles/samples made about 2 years ago. In this post, I will be sharing more from pictures of toiled to the fabric types that I have used and suggested and pictures from testers whose suggestions have helped me improve the patterns.

About the EasyMake Line

These three new sewing patterns and more to come are part of a line that I label “EasyMake by SewExplicit Patterns”. As the label implies, these are sewing patterns that are easy to make, easy to sew, and easy to wear, with a focus on clothing styles that are flexible, forgiving, and comfortable, whether that means added ease or the stretch of knit fabric. This will include knit styles, shift dresses, swing dresses, and similar silhouettes that come together quickly and don’t require fussy fastenings. However, unlike my last released sewing pattern, Eva, the sewing patterns in the EasyMake line will not be multi-cup, and the sizing will range from bust 32″ to 48″ (81–122 cm) only. Most of my older patterns like Ekinni, Renikeji, Aria and Ebun match the spirit of EasyMake Patterns, and they will gradually be updated and brought into the line. 

Also new is my decision to be the face of SewExplicit Patterns; these new patterns and upcoming ones will be modelled by me. It has taken me a long while to mentally get here, and I like it. I will slowly and gradually replace the cover pictures of all patterns on the website. 

Fabric Suggestion & Sizing

This mini-collection is designed for moderate knits with 30-40% stretch in both the lengthwise and crosswise directions; have elastane/spandex content and good stretch recovery. The fabric should be about 250-300 gsm (7.3 oz/yd² - 8.85 oz/yd²). Here is a YouTube link to a video on how to determine the stretch amount in your fabric. 

The weight, stretch and drape of the fabric will impact the fit and look of the designs. With the same size, heavier fabric will fit tighter, while lighter and slinkier fabric will fit more loosely. Using heavier-weight fabric or fabric with less stretch may require sizing up, while using lighter-weight or fabric with more stretch may require sizing down or additional seam intake. The fabrics that have been used for the final photo samples and toiles are all different, but still work. 

The army green fabric is a ribbed knit with almost 50% stretch in the crosswise direction and a little less in the lengthwise direction, about 250 gsm and has some drape and slink to it.

The black fabric is a plisse-ish (or is it just ribbed?) knit with about 40% stretch in both crosswise and lengthwise directions. It is about 260 gsm and has a somewhat stiffer hand than the army green fabric.

The red fabric is about 300 gsm, has a soft terry-like feel, probably a cotton or rayon blend and has a stretch of about 40% I the crosswise direction and a little less in the lengthwise direction. 

The blue fabric is about 280 gsm, has the stiffest hand and the least drape of all of the fabrics used and has about 40% stretch in the crosswise direction and less in the lengthwise direction. 

While all SewExplicit Patterns are designed for the average height of about 165 to 172 cm (5’ 5 to 5’ 8), I am at the time of shooting these pictures 157cm (5’2) tall with Upper bust-Full bust-Waist-Hip measurements of 34-36-31-39.5 inches (86.4 -91.4 - 78.4-100.3 cm). I will be mentioning the sizes and the height adjustments I made for the photo samples for each style below. 

SIDEBAR: I just found out last month that I am now 157cm tall. The last time I checked my height was in 2014/2015 when I was 155 cm tall. I was pretty stoked when I found out that I had grown another 2cm since then. Or was the measuring device just incorrect the last time?

Also, these three new sewing patterns have been drafted for a B-cup bust size. The instruction booklets contain suggestions on how to select your size and make simple adjustments. 

Meet the New Patterns

IRIS

Iris is a 2-piece coordinating top and skirt pattern. You may want to avoid using light slinky knits for the skirt, as the waistband is self-supporting with no elastic insertion. Both army green and Iris samples were made in size 10. I made the black top as is without height adjustment, while I reduced the army green bodice length by ¾” (2cm) through the provided shorten/lengthen line. The skirt length in both is as it is. 

JASMINE

Jasmine is a dress pattern with an option to make it as a top. The Jasmine sleeve is designed to be worn ruched or pushed up. If you try to wear it not pushed up, you will encounter restricted arm movement. Also, you can wear the bodice with varying degrees of neckline exposure to suit your mood- flirty or demure. You can also swap the bodice pattern with that of Iris's and make yourself an Iris dress using the Jasmine skirt part; you only have to move a notch placement. 

I made a size 10 in the blue with a height adjustment to the bodice by shortening it ¾” (2cm) as shown in the instruction booklet. I had shortened the skirt pattern piece by 1.5”, I didn’t like how short it was so I left the gown unhemmed (hem allowance is ¾”/2cm).

MARIGOLD

Marigold is also a 2-piece coordinating set with a loose-fitting T-shirt and two pants variations. The trouser waist is finished with an elastic band. The trouser length of all three samples was shortened by 2” through the marked shorten/lengthen lines. The black and army green samples were made in size 10, while the red Marigold was made in size 9 (halfway between sizes 8 and 10) at a time when I weighed less, but photographed at the same time as the army green and black. Can you see the difference in fit? 

Early Development Samples

The red Jasmine sample shown below was made in a previous version of the pattern and in a size 9 (Midway between 8 and 10), which was my size at the time I sewed it. I have since made some updates since then, like widening the cuff and adding a bit more ease through the arm, the hip and hem circumferences. 

The black top below is the very first Jasmine sample. I had removed the cuff at the time of taking the picture. The jasmine pattern now in store has seen a lot of changes from this black top.

The viridian green Iris below was the first sample. I have since made several updates, including tightening the empire waistline, increasing the box pleat, adding a self-facing to the neckline and adding a band to the skirt- this one is bandless, though you can't see it. 

The tri-colour sample is somewhere between the first viridian green sample and the final army green sample. The most visible difference, apart from the colour blocking, was that I used inverted pleats and realised I prefer the box pleats. The colour-blocking was done to make use of leftover fabric, so the final pattern does not include these style lines. The three different coloured fabrics are the same type of fabric but slightly differing weights/thickness, with the cream being the thickest and the green the lightest. 
                   

For Marigold, the earliest version is the black one, and it has seen several wears. The yoke style of the T-shirt came from improvising with limited fabric. This time, I retained the style line in the final pattern. 

Fun fact: Iris and Jasmine were inspired by clothes I used to own. Marigold was born from a simple desire for comfy slacks and a tee.

Testers’ Makes

I had a few testers test these three new sewing patterns, and below are from those who have permitted me to publicly share their pictures. I am grateful to all of them. 

Steph from Instagram.com/scrapsandscissortails

Laura from https://www.instagram.com/lauragestori

Dobrila from https://www.instagram.com/dobra_vila23

Sandra from https://www.instagram.com/roybalsm2019

Pilar Ramos from https://www.instagram.com/@jugando_con_telas_pili

Get Iris, Jasmine, and Marigold now — or save 16.7% when you buy the bundle.
All patterns include Trim A4/Letter , A0, and Projector PDFs, plus illustrated instructions in English, Spanish, and German.